Fashion: PHERAN
Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. In its everyday use, the term implies a look defined by the fashion industry as that which is trending.
Pheran or phiran is the traditional outfit for both males and females in the Kashmir Valley. The pheran consist of two gowns, one over the other. The traditional pheran extends to the feet, which was popular up to the late 19th century , C.E. However, a relatively modern variation of the pheran extends to below the knees which is worn with a suthan inside (loose form of shalwar) similar to the styles worn in Afghanistan. It is optional to wear the suthan with a long phiran as traditionally lower garments are not worn with pherans. The traditional pheran do not have side slits. In his book 'The Valley of Kashmir', Sir
(Girl holding a basket and representing Pheran dress)Walter Lawrence blames Akbar for inventing this garment. Lawrence was the Settlement Commissioner for Jammu and Kashmir during 1889-94.
The traditionally Poots & Pheran is the most popular form of dress among both men and women With Mughal type Turbans, headgear, Taranga Belt of Pashmina and colored scarf. The Pheran is the prominent attire for Kashmiri women.
he pheran is a loose upper garment loosely gathered at the sleeves which tend to be wide, made of either wool or jamewar which is a mixture of wool and cotton, with no side slits. A pheran made of wool is called a 'loch'. Female pheran dresses are designed with colorful flower like designed elements and styles.
There are several stories associated with Pheran in Kashmir. One narrative is that the Emperor Akbar was enraged at the bravery and prolonged resistance offered by the Chaks to his General, Qasim Khan, who decided to effeminate, unman and degrade the people of this country, and so, he ordered the people, on the pain of death, to wear Pheran which has hindered them in battles and all manly exercises.
The object, according to this theory, was to make Kashmiris lethargic and indolent by keeping their hands always inside it on a warm Kangari, fire-earthen-pot, which killed their martial habiliments and warlike spirit against the Mughal rulers. Dr. GMD Sufi (D Lit) rejects this narrative by saying that if this story were true, then the Kashmiris would not have required Kangari at all. Sir Marc Aurel Stein regards it as silly story. Pir Hassan Shah says that Pheran was introduced during the time of King, Zain ul Abidin.
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