HIDDEN SECRETS OF INDIA -Finery of Mughal fashion

 The finery of Mughal fashion .

By Harnoor Matharoo

India is a nation quite rich in diversity. We have different religions , different customs , rituals , festivals , castes , and finally the castes themselves break away into different mind sets across the main line of "being humans". 

India is a nation showing warmth , love , patience , wisdom , deep-rooted values , acceptance , grace , sincerity , self-actualising manners and all the essence that makes you want to " Stay" , that makes you want to " slow down - have a cup of tea - then balance your work- relax life". 

Likewise is the case when it comes to Indian FASHION.  Indian fashion is a mix of regional , cultural , and historical influences. Here we would be talking about how and what are the influences that the" Mughals " vested onto the minds of our ancestors in terms of fashion and how those fashion statements of the mughals still make their appearance in the current fashion trends.  

Mughals have created a unique and distinctive sense of fashion which has its share of sneak peak into today's fashion trends even. Their fine artistry and workmanship is absolutely unparalleled. Be it clothing or architecture their taste for every magnificent is easily reflected by the finery of designs. Attires were created from luxurious silk, velvet, brocade and muslin and elaborate designs and embroideries were  the distinct characteristics of the Mughal fashion. Men wore  design short and long robes or coats which included long-sleeved clothing called chogha. Pagri on the head, a patka or sash at the waist, pyjama style pants were trademarks of men’s fashion.  Their turbans were usually adorned with fine jewels or precious stones like diamonds, pearls and rubies.

Women, on the other hand, wore a traditional dress of Persia and Khurasan due to Purdah system. In the court of Humayun and Babar, most noble women wore loose wide pants.  The upper body garment was loose which was fastened with a V neckline. 

Women and men wore opulent fine jewelry with precious stones which were a fine example of Mughal craftsmanship which is documented from the paintings. Women wore 8 complete sets of jewellery included bejeweled turbans, earrings, pearls necklaces, armlets, bangles, bracelets, rings, thumb ring, string of pearls or metal bands as anklets and head ornaments in the form of sun, moon, stars or flowers. Various types of ear ornaments were worn during the Mughal period which included Jhumkas,  Kanphool, Bali, Mor-Bhanwar and Pipal Patra.

Mughal Emperor Akhbar

The great Akhbar who was the third Mughal Emperor ruled between 1556 and 1605.  Akhbar was a patron of culture and arts and supported Hindu-Muslim unity. Akhbar dressing sense was distinct and included a comfortable clothing. He was fond of shawls especially the DARUKHA SHAWL , a double -sided variety if shawl. Akhbar had simplicity of thoughts . But that did not stop him from dressing with a gemstone embellished small turban ,a long kurta layered with a jacket which is still an inspiration for Sherwani designs .He wore fine jewellery which included pearls strings , emerald embellished waistband , and heavy rings which elevated hia royal figure. His clothing was always embroidered with intricate kundan and zari work reflecting his rich lifestyle .

Maharani Jodha

Maharani jodha 's dressing style was  immersed in richly embroidered woven fabrics made in Rajasthan.  The fine craftsmanship was  done on the fabrics with zardozi, kundan and stones to create her royal attires like lehenga choli . The attires were created with finest brocade, silks and cottons in bright and vibrant colors. Her head was mostly covered with dupatta or a pallu. Royalty was perfectly visible through her fine jewelry made from polki, kundan and fine jadau work. Heavy necklaces, earrings, hand harness, math borla, waistband, armlet and what not. She was a moving art drenched in tradition. Jodha’s style of dressing has inspired current bridal fashion in India. Royal looks of brides are immensely inspired by Jodha’s jewelry and lehengas.

PARDA SYSTEM

Purdah system was prevalent during the mughals and the folks during the rule of mughals felt a certain way for the utmost neccessity of the purdah system .Purdah or Parda system has been practiced since ages in India in Hindu and Muslim communities. It is a social and religious practice for segregating the sexes women from men basically. This practice secludes women and also restricts their personal rights and choices. It is also a believed it is a form of respect and to conceal female body parts. In the Hindu community it is called Purdah and in the Muslim community, it called Burqa or Naqab or Hijab. It is especially important for married Hindu women to keep a purdah or veil or ghunghat in front of the elder men or outsiders. The pardah is a part of the saree pallu draped over the head to cover the entire face.

In Muslims, the practice is still very prevalent around the world and is an important part of their religion. Women generally wear a black burqa as an external black robe to cover themselves from head to toe with a mesh across the eyes. It is believed to protect the women’s honor. Hijaab is another form of veil worn by Muslim women which usually covers head and chest in front of adult males or outsiders.

In Hindus, the practice is diminishing with modernization but is still prevalent in the rural areas.

FASHION EVOLUTION IN INDIA

The Indian fashion has evolved ever since humankind. Currently Indian statement to fashion is an inspiration to many across the world and an absolute delight to the eyes of People across the world. Our woven handloom textiles, beautiful sarees, designer dresses, rich embroideries have turned Indian fashion platter into a gamut of rich diversity. The regional diversity in weaving, embroidery and clothing styles has made Indian textiles all the more vibrant and appealing. Indian designers have played a major role in making the fashion world what it is today! The fashion industry is still evolving and emerging in the country with a major emphasis on sustainable and eco-friendly fashion. Let us look at how the fashion has evolved over a period of time.

Post- Independence Scenario

Though the fashion history of India can be dated back to ancient times, it was post-independence that fashion industry saw a major growth and evolution. Saree, dhoti, ghagra choli remained quite popular in the pre and post-independence era. But with the influence of Western culture, many changes made a foray in the Indian fashion scenario. Embroidery is a common point between Indian and western fashion and is also a trademark of Indian fashion which is vastly used on silhouettes like sarees, lehengas, suits and many other attires. The same embroidery became a fashion statement when it started emerging on Western attires like shirts, skirts, dresses and more which made a good amalgamation of Indian and Western style.

Indian Fashion Designers like Ritu Kumar started the revival of hand-block printing in Bengal. She also brought the beautiful craftsmanship of Zardozi to limelight in the 70s which revived this art. Embroidery became an important mark of Indian fashion, especially in clothes which made embroidery India’s biggest fashion export. Other forms of weaving, embroidery, and printing like patola ikat, double ikat, and ikat, tie-dye also were revived with the efforts of many NGOs.